Monday, September 24, 2012

Turn an Old Door Into...........

DIY Projects:
Turn a Door Into ...
Who knew you could do so much with just a simple reclaimed door? We'll show you how to turn an old door into:

  1. Remove the old hardware by scraping away built-up layers of paint so the screwdriver has a firm grip on the screw heads. If screws remain stuck, loosen them with a sharp hammer blow to the handle of the screwdriver.
  2. Remove the old glass by placing cardboard under and over the panels and smashing it out with a hammer. Use a chisel to scrape away putty and remove glazing pins.
  3. Scrape off paint and trim use a hot airgun or hair dryer to heat the paint while removing it with a metal scraper, disposing carefully as it may contain lead. Mark 4-in. around the panels to square up the edges of the table with a circular saw.
Prep 1Sue Ferris[+]
Prep 2Sue Ferris[+]
Prep 3Sue Ferris[+]


Wear safety gear including gloves and glasses.

Step 2: Secure the Backing

Notch corners in the underpanel to allow for the legs. Put the backing in the panels, apply adhesive and secure the underpanel to the door with 1-in. screws. From the top, secure 1-in. screws through the backing to pull up the underpanel.
Step 2: Secure the BackingSue Ferris[+]

Step 3: Position the Infills

Generously apply construction adhesive on the backing then secure three infill pieces in each panel. Core out and square up the lock and handle holes with a sharp chisel and cut matching infill pieces to fit, securing with adhesive.
Step 3: Position the InfillsSue Ferris[+]


Check the dimensions of the cutting list against the door before cutting the pieces, adding 2-in. to the trim to allow for mitering and checking the plywood backing and infill pieces fit in the panels.

Step 4: Prepare the Rails

At the base of the end and side rails mark 3 1/2-in. from the ends and 3 1/2-in. from the top, joining with a curved line, using a circular saw and jigsaw to cut and a belt sander to smooth the outer surfaces of the rails.
Step 4: Prepare the RailsSue Ferris[+]

Step 5: Make the Dowel Joints

At the top of the legs and end of the rails, use a doweling jig to drill three 3/8-in. holes 1 3/8-in. apart. Do a test fit and adjust if necessary, apply wood glue in the holes and on the end grain of the rails, assembling with dowels.
Step 5: Make the Dowel JointsSue Ferris[+]
Step 5: Make the Dowel Joints 2Sue Ferris[+]

Step 6: Assemble the Frame

Tap the legs and rails together with a mallet then position wood corner blocks at the outside corners to hold the frame and set up a long ratchet cargo strap to pull the frame tightly and leave to dry. Check legs are plumb and square.
Step 6: Assemble the FrameSue Ferris[+]

Step 7: Add the Corner Bracing

Position the corner braces 3/8-in. from the top of the legs to allow for the underpanel, securing with #8 x 3-in. screws into the legs and #8 x 2-in. screws into the rails.
Step 7: Add the Corner BracingSue Ferris[+]


Alternatively, use angled metal braces with 45° ends.

Step 8: Attach the Tabletop

To secure the tabletop to the frame, position one cleat on each end and three on each side by drilling two pilot holes into the rails and two clearance holes into the tabletop, securing with screws.
Finished Diagram[+]
Step 8: Attach the TabletopSue Ferris[+]


Alternatively, use tabletop brackets.

Step 9: Attach the Trim

Miter the trim, drill pilot holes then secure it to the tabletop with 1 5/8-in. screws, filling the screw heads with wood filler. Hand plane the infill pieces level then smooth with a belt sander using coarse sandpaper then a random orbital sander.
Step 9: Attach the TrimSue Ferris[+]

Step 10: Smooth and Finish

Fill gaps between the infill with polyester resin and leave to dry; then, smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply three coats of French polish over the tabletop, lightly rubbing between coats with steel wool. Finish with a coat of beeswax polish.
Step 10: Smooth and FinishSue Ferris[+]
Finished TableSue Ferris[+]

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